New guest post- check it out!

Check out my new guest post at The Middle Kingdom 

It's run by Matt and Kara who are very nice people, also blogging about life in China. They have lots of useful info if you are planning to live here or if you're new to Beijing.

Open a window

Zhu Rong Ji, ex-Chinese Premier*, said "When you open a window, fresh wind blows in. But dust and flies will also come in." He was referring to the idea of China opening up to the West about 20 years ago, and allowing more of an exchange of business, culture and ideas.

A student told me this quote this morning as part of a lesson where we were discussing the effect of the West's influence on the health of the Chinese people. I'm afraid there were quite a lot of flies!! Mostly in the shape of hamburgers, pizzas and alcohol.

Apparently Zhu Rong Ji added that putting a net over the window can keep out the dust and flies. This is where the romance of the window analogy breaks down for me, but it still has an important meaning. He was saying that if we keep our own minds, we can hold on to traditional culture whilst remaining open to new and positive ideas. You'd have to ask a Chinese person what those new and old ideas are and I suspect you'd get many different and varied answers.

I like this quote because I think it is not only true but applies to many situations. When you try something new or open your mind to new things, there will be both positive and negative things that come along for the ride.

So go and open a window and let some fresh air in... but keep the fly-swat handy!

*Zhu Rong Ji was Premier from 1998-2003, and was succeeded by the current premier, Wen Jiabao.

Taking a nap

Today was the day I took my first ever nap at work. With a full belly after lunch, sat in my comfy chair in the warm office, I fell asleep. I was serenaded by the quiet chatter of my Chinese colleagues and the regular dripping coming from the leaking ceiling (don't ask!).

When I first began working here, I remember being slightly shocked by the number of heads slumped on desks around 3pm. I talked to a student about it and I explained that its not really done in the UK and it would be both amusing and a little shocking.

James (the student) is planning on moving to England soon and so has a keen interest in cultural matters. He asked what should he do if he feels sleepy at work, and looked pretty alarmed as I broke the news to him. In disbelief, he asked "But what if you're really tired?" 

"Just carry on!" I replied, in true British spririt. As the words came out, I suddenly realised who's got it right. Is it really a good idea to soldier on regardless, producing low quality work because you're so tired that you can't concentrate properly? Why not take a quick power nap, feel refreshed and then resume with renewed effort? What a cracking idea!

And so it was in this spirit that I decided to join the club today. When I awoke ten minutes later, feeling ready to tackle that lesson plan, no-one even commented. How wonderful!

Manhole misery

Manholes in Beijing just don’t get a good press! Before I moved here, I barely gave a thought to those plates of iron which separate us from the world beneath. However, recently I can’t help but read about horror after horror caused by the humble manhole cover, or lack thereof.  The most recent stats I can find say that in 2006, 47 people were killed in China as a direct result of stolen manhole covers and 10,000 people injured. I know, I know: China has a population of 1 billion people, what’s 47? But it’s such unnecessary suffering. 

The authorities in Beijing are constantly fighting theft of the cities’ 600,000 manhole covers. According to Wikipedia 240,000 covers were stolen from Beijing's streets in 2004. Night-time robbers crept in to remove the metal covers which could be sold for scrap at a decent price (US$2.4 dollars per manhole, back in 2004). 

You don’t have to look very hard to find chilling tales of manhole hell, such as the 4-year old boy in Changchun, capital of Jilin province, who fell down an uncovered manhole and drowned in 2008. Here’s a couple of more recent episodes:

Manhole horror story #1

In the recent terrible floods, this story caught my eye: A woman narrowly escaped death after being suddenly swept 100m down a road by floodwater, and then sucked down an open manhole. She was trapped in the giant plughole, with water gushing over her head. Eventually the poor woman was pulled free after 5 or so minutes.  

Manhole horror story #2

This is the utterly horrific story of the woman who earlier this year fell down one of Beijing’s many loose manhole covers. Unfortunately, the story does not end there. Waiting below was litres of scalding steam and boiling water from a broken heating pipe. She suffered 99% burns and died later.

Needless to say, I now step around all manholes. In Beijing though, sometimes you're trapped between a herd of determined pedestrians and a front of hooting cars, and manholes are simply unavoidable. At such times, I just have to close my eyes and hold my breath.

The internet is full of news stories saying that the Beijing authorities are clamping down on manhole cover theft, but there is very little recent information available. I read that manufacturers are working on a composite manhole cover which would do the same job, but not be valuable for scrap and so be less desirable.

Even the intact manholes can be dodgy. There's a few near my office and I see the ground around them bend and buckle as cars ride over them. Indeed, general pavement maintenance leaves something to be desired, as this poor girl found out. Many pavements, designed to bear the weight of humans only, are used as car parks and so the tarmac and paving quickly cracks and breaks. Heavy summer rain pours in and washes away the soil underneath, leaving behind a very precarious situation. 

Stay safe out there folks: if the manhole cover looks loose or wobbly and the pavement looks badly cracked, step to one side!

Falling at the first hurdle

It was great to see some live Olympics for the 1st time today. An announcement was made at work and people promptly gathered around the TV for the much anticipated 110m hurdles heat. The usually quiet reception area was humming and felt like I imagine the Queen's coronation might have been like for many people back in 1952- lots of people huddled round the nearest TV set. The Chinese athlete Liu Xiang was running and after the disappointment of Beijing 2008, the pressure was on. There was a palpable sense of excitement as people chattered about the events of 4 years ago during the pre-race build up. The gun went and the race began and was over with a few seconds, as Xiang literally fell at the first hurdle.

I was focussed on the British guy in lane 7, who shortly won, but the rest of the room was silent. I held up my arms to celebrate a win for the UK and was about to shout hurray, when I detected this would not be wise. No-one was crying but no-one spoke either. The CCTV channel played and replayed the fall from every possible angle, for another 10 minutes. Eventually they brought out a presenter who sighed deeply and struggled to find any words.

My heart was with poor Xiang who probably felt the billion strong weight of his nation willing him on. How wonderful to have so many people supporting you, but what crippling disapointment he will face now.

He heriocally hopped the rest of the course and at the finish was helped to his waiting wheelchair by the British winner. Congrats to Andy Turner, not only for his speed but also for being a nice guy too.

Falling back in love with Chinese food

After a bout of food poisoning, recently I have been put right off Chinese food. In fact I spent my last weekend trying to get hold of some home comforts- pasta, bread, jam, fresh coffee, and real milk. All expensive and I had to go out of my way to find them, but they were soooo delicious and my poor stomach was so glad of them.

However, on a wet rainy day like today, it seemed too far to walk to anywhere that served Western food. Having said that, I’d had a rough morning at work and I needed to get out of the building. So I ventured back to my old favourite, the food court in the basement of my local mall. The wonders of this place are numerous:

1. None of my colleagues go there, preferring McDonalds or Subway, so I know I won’t be disturbed.
2. It is a mall but it’s not flashy or westernized. There’s no Gucci or fancy shop fronts, just little stalls pedalling their wares.
3. Being in the basement, it’s always a comfortable temperature. When it’s hot outside, it’s cool inside and vice versa.
4. The greatest wonder of this place is the incredible variety of freshly cooked Chinese food. When I say fresh, we’re talking cooked in front of you and ready to eat within a minute of ordering. Mmm-mm!
5. The staff are so friendly. They always remember me and what I like to eat! As I walked down the row of stalls, it was nihao after nihao. 

Where was I? Oh yes, I’d had a crappy morning at work and it was a wet and unseasonably chilly day. I was welcomed back into the fold and I headed straight to the baozi stall. The lady warmly greeted me and knew exactly what I wanted. I was presented with a piping bamboo steamer and a pair of kuaizi. The dumplings were nestled together, proud and cosy and reviving. I looked around me whilst savouring the doughy warmth of the baozi and saw the benches full of people chatting and like me, finding comfort in their lunch.  Knowing the Chinese people’s love of food, this place feels like the beating heart of china. This is where the food is made that fuels and comforts the workers. Where people reconnect with each other and with food.

Lost in thought and still a bit clumsy with chopsticks, I managed to drop half a baozi down my front. The lady opposite handed me a tissue. I thank her and using my basic mandarin, we had a little conversation. About food of course.

And that’s how I fell back in love with Chinese food. I love this place!

Shiny China

Whilst sipping a cappuccino this morning, a rather interesting scene unfolded before me. I was smiling as I watched the tiny tots spin round on the carousel in front of the cafe window. The parents were waving and grinning, cameras flashing and their expectations higher than the children’s. Everyone was generally having a good time, me included, when the ride slowed unexpectedly to a stop and the families were ushered away by men in suits. The kids’ smiles began to crack and tears pricked their big beautiful brown eyes.

A slim female celeb in a floaty dress took her place astride a horse. She was soon joined by a flashy looking interviewer who smiled and joked as he tried to keep his balance. The horses  lurched forwards.

In the background, an old man was minding his own business whilst sweeping the street. A crew member grumpily snatched the broom from his hands, gave the place a cursory brush and then pushed the old man away. Looking pleased with himself, he rejoined the suits. The street sweeper was united with the disgruntled families, kept at bay and craning his neck to see what was happening.

That's better. China was looking shiny and new, ready for the CCTV cameras.